Travels with Dick and Karen

SW US 2018, Part 3

Grand Tetons to Seattle

SW US map
From Green River/James Town we head north on Wyoming 372 ... this has been a trip frequently using "the roads less traveled". For the next hour or so we'll see fewer than ten other vehicles. Our morning starts by going through more rolling flat sage. SW US tour 2018

... occasional mines...

SW US tour 2018

and prong horn antelope.

SW US tour 2018
Now we've swung on to US 189, where we find some wildlife walkways over and under the highways. SW US tour 2018
In the distance we start to see the Tetons. SW US tour 2018
Once we enter the Grand Teton National Park we hurry north to ... SW US tour 2018
... get a camp spot at Signal Mountain campground (a bit south of the Lodge's hub-bub). SW US tour 2018

...and spend the rest of the day walking around.

Despite the Teton Range to our immediate west, Jackson Lake's water is part of the Snake River ... the same river we camped beside on our second night of the trip.

SW US tour 2018
We wander through shady paths and fields of flowers SW US tour 2018

(heart-leaf arnica)

SW US tour 2018
Then back to the van for a rest, shade, and to get away from the campfire smoke. SW US tour 2018
In the morning we're off before moonset SW US tour 2018
Just to confuse things, this map (satellite photo) has southwest at the top. Our north-bound path to Yellowstone runs off the center right. SW US tour 2018
Yellowstone National Park's south entry has the old buildings in a very changing landscape. SW US tour 2018
Across the Lewis Canyon, we could see it was still very snowy. We're glad we're not any earlier in the year. We were told it had snowed in Canyon campground the night before. SW US tour 2018
The south entrance road stays fairly high, 7500 to 8000 feet.   SW US tour 2018
With a signed reminder just north of Lewis Lake. SW US tour 2018
How Yellowstone: steaming landscape with bison (and stopped tourists). SW US tour 2018

We experienced only one full-blown "buffalo jam" on the way to Norris Campground.

Since we didn't have reservations, we were trying to arrive early in the day in hopes of an available spot. Yellowstone isn't in full swing in early June, with a couple of the larger campgrounds still closed. We lucked out, and booked in for three nights. Having a short Sprinter helps. Subsequent mornings found a long line at the check-in door an hour before they opened.

SW US tour 2018

While we're getting organized, here's some Yellowstone Background:

Yellowstone is sitting on, or just plain is a very large volcano.
The three colors are the three different calderas of Yellowstone's significant huge eruptions.
The oldest one (light blue) was 2.1 million years ago.
Then the second one was 1.3 million years ago on the western edge of the first, shown as dark blue.
The most recent, only 640,000 years ago, is the intermediate blue. It spit out 240 cubic miles of debris. The floor of the volcano collapsed, forming the caldera.
The green areas within the caldera are "resurgent domes", areas of the ground rising up relative to the rest of the caldera's floor.
Mammoth Hot Springs, up at the northwest of the park, is completly outside of the calderas. Likewise, Norris Basin, the first "hot spot" we'll visit, is also outside, but only by about 2 miles.
(p.s. please ignore the You Are Here in the photo ... we simply didn't find a sign with this info until Mud Volcano on our 3rd day)

We now return to the trip as it happened...

SW US tour 2018

We spent the rest of our first day walking the nearby Norris Basin geyser paths.

Norris is the Park's oldest, hottest and "most changeable" geothermal area. For a rough sense of scale, the line on the lower left is 1/4 mile.

SW US tour 2018
As we enter the area, we're facing Porcelain Basin.  SW US tour 2018
Lots of warning signs but tourists still get scalded by walking off path. Despite the translation to Chinese on the lower right, we saw, and in a couple of cases cautioned, folks heading off the walkways to get closer to the hot features. SW US tour 2018

Instead of naming everything we decided to just give photos of our experience of the various basins and geothermal features therein.

The geology we've seen so far demonstrates that the earth is always changing. In Yellowstone it just happens at a closer to human perceivable rate. Things will be different every time you visit. You won't feel them but the area has lots of small tremors and a few medium to large ones. Shifting earth, different amounts of trickling water means some features go dormant and some become more active.

 

SW US tour 2018
The colors are amazing: most are due to different kinds of thermophillic organisums. SW US tour 2018

In fact, the color can sort of tell you what the water temperature is (as well as how acid or alkaline it is).

The reddish "chemotrphs" are getting their energy from iron dissolved in the water ... their preferred temperature is between 122 and 140° F. The greens are thermophilic algae. They get their energy from sunlight and prefer 100 to 133° F.

SW US tour 2018
The light blue is dissolved silica.  SW US tour 2018
Some areas we recalled as being quite active on our previous visits had calmed down a bit.  SW US tour 2018
Watch it bubble... 
Back Basin's features are more spread out. The forest is recovering from a 1988 fire.  SW US tour 2018

We stand in the hot bright sun and debate where to go next.

SW US tour 2018

 

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This large beetle was wandering along the path. Not many other critters are visible at this time of day. SW US tour 2018
There were lots of plants in bloom along the more shaded paths connecting the hot zones. SW US tour 2018
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  SW US tour 2018
But where it gets too hot the plants die. Growing around a rock didn't help this tree once the ground got too hot. SW US tour 2018
At some spots we noticed lots of dead trees. This indicated that the ground was cool enough and the air un-fumed enough for them to grow sometime in the recent past. At least within the decay time of wood in this climate: the Park Service keeps experimenting with new materials in making walkways because they have to replace the wooden ones so often. SW US tour 2018
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This pool isn't surrounded by dead trees so this hot area hasn't probably expanded recently. SW US tour 2018
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A veritable traffic jam. Steamboat Geyser is the world's tallest geyser. It's mostly unpredictable but goes over 300 feet high. We saw it go off on a previous visit. There was a rumor that it might go off soon so lots of folks were camped out with chairs and cameras just in case -- we heard that it did go off the next morning. Its wet eruption lasts between 3 and 40 minutes, usually followed by hours of thundering steam. SW US tour 2018
A stop through the small visitor center had this map of other hot areas of the world -- we haven't been to all of them yet. SW US tour 2018
From the Norris Basin, we move a bit south down the road to the Artists Paintpots.  SW US tour 2018
Bubbling Mud   SW US tour 2018
... will always draw Karen's fond attention. 
(but none of the voices are hers)
Feeling the heat, we climbed the rise above the boiling mud. SW US tour 2018
Then came back down to the shady relief of walking between plants and flowers on the way back to the Sprinter. SW US tour 2018
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A raven was scolding us as we left. SW US tour 2018

The next morning was cool so everything steamed.

We're headed south...

SW US tour 2018
The bison were lying around digesting but with so few tourists up and about this early there were no traffic jams ... yet. SW US tour 2018
Our first stop is Midway Geyser basin SW US tour 2018
... Excelsior Geyser steaming ...  SW US tour 2018
... flowing hot water ...  SW US tour 2018
... into the Firehole River.
Sink holes appear, may steam for a while, then nearby earthquakes shift the flows.  SW US tour 2018
Looking back at Excelsior... SW US tour 2018
... across the water pan separating it from ...   SW US tour 2018
... the much-photographed Grand Prismatic Spring  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
>From the ground you can only get pieces of the picture...  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
So we'll look at the buffalo tracks: they hang out in the warm areas during the winter. SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
Smaller Opal Pool is easier to capture in a glimpse SW US tour 2018
Back on the road, it's now late enough for buffalo-jams SW US tour 2018
We saw many distant waterfalls coming off the rim and lava mounds of Yellowstone's volcanic caldera. SW US tour 2018

Biscuit Basin is quite small, but busy.

In August 1959, a magnitude 7.5 earthquake struck just a few miles to the northwest. Four days later Sapphire Pool began to erupt violently, throwing large rock "biscuits" around its crater. Hence the name.
We'll be seeing more of the quake's effects later in the Park... and on our way home.

The small inset photo on the sign is speaking of "bobbysox" trees ... killed by being saturated by silica when the local water flows shift.

SW US tour 2018
The basin has a number of colorful pools (with reflections of clouds)... SW US tour 2018
... and little bubblers SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
The tell-tale colors of iron-metabolizing bacteria and archea ... with bison prints.  SW US tour 2018
Sapphire Pool.  SW US tour 2018
As we walked into the basin, this was dry ... SW US tour 2018
... seven minutes later, it started going off SW US tour 2018
so we ran back to catch it just winding down. SW US tour 2018
... but it was still cute ...
... lots of pools...>  SW US tour 2018
... and throats ...  SW US tour 2018
... and craters ...  SW US tour 2018
... and bubbles.  SW US tour 2018
This monkeyflower can grow where other things can't SW US tour 2018
Bison roam at will. SW US tour 2018
Even the river banks are colorful SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
Here at Black Sand Basin, we are again reminded that Yellowstone is considered an "active" volcano ... even though the last eruption was 630,000 years ago. The ash fell as far away as Nebraska and Texas, as well as covering most of the western US. There's still a lot of magma waiting below the surface.  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
Black Sand's Emerald Pool was Karen's second favorite pool. SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
On to the Upper Geyser Basin SW US tour 2018
Otherwise known as Old Faithful and company. SW US tour 2018

Since we "just missed" an eruption, we decide to take a counter-clockwise route around Old Faithful to explore the rest of the area.

Here's the distance they take you from the back side.

SW US tour 2018
Back against the edge of the forest, we pass through vegetation ... SW US tour 2018
... with elk SW US tour 2018
The shape of the blow-hole determines what sort of spray pattern you get, fountain or cone. SW US tour 2018
Most were just bubbling this morning SW US tour 2018
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The build up of deposits on this were especially interesting. SW US tour 2018
Another interlude of plants and shade SW US tour 2018
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with bison -- we had to wait until it wandered farther from the path. SW US tour 2018
In the meantime Old Fathful went off in the background. SW US tour 2018
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Let's see... .the last eruption was at ... er ... ummm ... "smudge".  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
Grotto started going off just as we turned to go SW US tour 2018
 
Famous Morning Glory pool is back to being colorful SW US tour 2018
because of all the work they did to fish tourist muck out of it. SW US tour 2018
We walked back to the lodge for lunch. SW US tour 2018
And finished just before SW US tour 2018
Old Faithful blew again SW US tour 2018
We now headed back north towards our campground, but still had a couple of places to visit along the way. Our first meander was Firehole Lake Drive, a 3-mile leisurely bypass paralleling the main road. SW US tour 2018
Firehole Spring, Karen's favorite pool: the white in the center is a large gas bubble that rises to the surface. We stood and watched for several minutes.   SW US tour 2018
...actively bubbling away...
Looking across the pool of Great Fountain Geyser towards...  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
... sitting quietly ...  SW US tour 2018
... until we were climbing back into the car. SW US tour 2018
Firehole Lake itself is hidden by the steam from Black Warrior Springs, which in turn feeds into Hot Lake.  SW US tour 2018
Large mats of warm water thermophilic bacteria lie underneath, creating the unusual brown color  SW US tour 2018

The thermophilics waving in the flow...

The green living in water a few degrees cooler than the red.

Plants growing at the edge of their tolerance range SW US tour 2018
Fascinating mineral-encrusted vents   SW US tour 2018
Young Hopeful Geyser (not "a", but "the") ...  SW US tour 2018
... as the video proves...
Wildlife! A beetle the color of the brown areas of the pools -- we wondered if that was where it usually hung out. SW US tour 2018

Why did Dick and Karen cross the road?

To cross from Firehole Lake Drive's one-way exit to the Lower Geyser Basin and Fountain Paint Pots area on the west side of the Grand Loop Road.

SW US tour 2018
Karen found lots of photogenic tree roots here... SW US tour 2018
...and trees that hadn't tipped over yet.
(some with bobbysox)
SW US tour 2018
"Red Spouter" is a very recent and very noisy mud pot SW US tour 2018
Very active...
Red Spouter was born in August 1959 as a result of an earthquake 25 miles northwest of here. This is the same quake that kicked Biscuit Basin's Sapphire Pool into tossing biscuits. We didn't know that we'd be visiting the quake's epicenter after we left the Park.  SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
... alive ...
One last view of Lower Basin as we went back to camp. SW US tour 2018
Beryl Spring had its own little pull-off. It was another feature that became much more active after the 1959 earthquake. Averaging 190° F (plus or minus 2 degrees), it's one of the hottest springs in the park. The bubbles are volcaninc gasses, mostly steam.

Our second morning dawns... if you think of the Grand Loop Road as a clock face, yesterday we did "9:00 to 6:00 to 9:00" ... today we'll try for "11:00 to 4:00", and then backtrack to 3:00 to short-cut directly across to 9:00 (and bed). 

The plans immediately suffer a minor de-rail by spotting a picturesque pull-off a couple of miles up the road from the campground. Let's call it "9:15" (at 7:40am).

It was early, the air was cool, everything was steaming nicely....

SW US tour 2018
Frying Pan Bowl ....  SW US tour 2018
A bit further north is Roaring Mountain...  SW US tour 2018
With an appropriately noisy feature (no video, sorry...) SW US tour 2018
... and Clearwater Springs.  SW US tour 2018
Then came the 20-minute wait for the guide car to lead us through six miles of roadwork. SW US tour 2018
... so Karen botanized. SW US tour 2018

Our goal for this morning: the terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs.

(you might notice the little "No Drones!" sticker on the left)

SW US tour 2018

The less-visited Upper Terrace Drive loops around on the (mostly) flat area above the well-known hot terraces. There are numerous stop-and-walk points, so we did.

Here the dead vegetation indicating moving hot areas is very noticable.

SW US tour 2018
new vegetation in areas that are not as hot as they had been SW US tour 2018
And trees that are just hanging on for other reasons. SW US tour 2018
An Orchid just putting up flowers SW US tour 2018
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An overvew of the top of the main Mammoth Hot Springs terrace from the west side SW US tour 2018
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cooler areas are brown with bacteria and algae growth SW US tour 2018
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New hot areas are the bright white of calcium carbonate ... travertine. SW US tour 2018
the center is dry and gray. SW US tour 2018
with isolated streams SW US tour 2018
the west side has more water again SW US tour 2018

Higher behind the main terrace there is a drive to isolated colorful domes

This is "Orange Spring Mound" ... underground pressure forces volcanically-heated water up through buried limestone, dissolving calcium carbonate as it goes. When it emerges the water cools and evaporates, leaving the calcium carbonate behind. Thermophilic bacteria and algae populate and color the outer surface

SW US tour 2018
It's about 25 feet tall.  SW US tour 2018
There are smaller terraces up here, too... SW US tour 2018
... gradually taking over the forested neighborhood.  SW US tour 2018

We drive down to Mammoth's "ground level".

The edge of the upper terrace area we just came from is that white slash waaay above the intervening trees.  

SW US tour 2018
Many areas are named ... Palette Spring here ...  SW US tour 2018
... although the ever-changing nature of the water flow, accumulating mineral deposits, changes of temperature and thermophile populations sometimes diminishes their former glories. SW US tour 2018
Mammoth Hot Springs Terrace is large and has lots of walkways but, at this level, not much water except at the edges SW US tour 2018
We strolled the flowered paths to the lodge for lunch SW US tour 2018
And came out to find the elk were also having lunch SW US tour 2018
... and siestas.
(Rangers scurry over with temporary warning signs) 
SW US tour 2018

We now drive east to the Tower/Roosevelt complex.

We meet the Yellowstone river which has carved a colorful canyon

SW US tour 2018
The Yellowstone River is rushing north to eventually drain into the Missouri at the Montana/North Dakota border.
At the overlook there was a mother marmot (the white striped object under her tail is one of the babies SW US tour 2018
Oh, let's go ooohh and ahhh over the cute beasties ...
Columnar basalt caps the softer stone at the top of the canyon. The "towers" are welded tuff which often forms such hoodoos SW US tour 2018
The columns are the layer just below the grass and trees.  SW US tour 2018
Tower Creek joins the Yellowstone at Tower Falls ...  SW US tour 2018
How the Towers and the Falls came to be ... once more the result of softer and harder stone being eroded by water SW US tour 2018
The area is moist enough and spring late enough that we saw iris. SW US tour 2018
New-growth in a burnt-over area. Last time we were here was soon after the devastating fire of 1988. Now policy has shifted from stifling all fires till fuel builds up to catastrophic levels to burning debris in rotating selected areas so the fires don't burn so hot and kill the older trees. SW US tour 2018
A raven at the next stop scolds us SW US tour 2018
as we wander down for our turn at the much-photographed and painted Upper Falls of the Yellowstone SW US tour 2018
and colorful canyon SW US tour 2018
Osprey nest SW US tour 2018
We drive to the south rim for another viewpoint SW US tour 2018
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"Inspiration Point" viewpoint on the north rim was closed. Here's a maximum zoom shot from the south rim. SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
We still had a bit of the day left so we went even further south to the Mud volcano area. SW US tour 2018
  SW US tour 2018
Dragon's Mouth Spring...  SW US tour 2018
... quite ferocious. 
Mud Volcano itself... in 1870 it had a termendous eruption that coated the nearby trees with mud. But the eruption blew its crater apart. Over the next two years it settled down to this roiling, boiling pool...  SW US tour 2018
... still merrily bubbling away. 
Grizzly Fumarole changes from day-to-day ...
During dry weather, it just steams. With recent rain or snow, the steam vent becomes a bubbling mud pot. All driven by the Yellowstone Volcano's underground magma chamber. 
SW US tour 2018
A couple of hundred feet above the Mud Volcano is the upper plateau.
Like so much of Yellowstone, it has a History. 
SW US tour 2018
One end of the cauldron was continuously roiling...  SW US tour 2018
...mesmerizing... 
Panning from the headwaters to the rest of the Cauldron.
The body of water beyond is called Sour Lake. 
Looking down from the Mud Volcano Area's upper plateau to the large Mud Cauldron on the left and the steaming Mud Geyser on the right.
During the late 1800s, Mud Geyser erupted every few hours. By 1927, the eruptions had ceased. The 1959 earthquake caused the soil temperatures to increase, killing the surrounding trees.
SW US tour 2018
The lowering sun over Mud Cauldron.  SW US tour 2018
Meanwhile, across the street... Sulphur Cauldron  SW US tour 2018
Sulphur Cauldron. The sun is getting low, so the camera is a bit slow (but gets there) changing exposure as we see the boiling well of sulphur-rich fluids (hence the yellow stains). As we pull back to the wider view, the black flickers that are crossing the screen are swallows swooping and chasing insects. 
The Sulphur Cauldron area is a fairly broad expanse of historic vents and unhappy vegetation.  SW US tour 2018
We drive back to camp through peaceful rolling high meadows. SW US tour 2018
The next morning we're heading out of the park via the West exit. First the short run to the south ... SW US tour 2018
... for our morning steam bath.  SW US tour 2018

Resuming our "road less travelled" habit, we take US 287 (roughly) northwestward instead of the more usual due-north US 191.After an hour or so of driving, we pull off for a break.

We're watched by an osprey.

SW US tour 2018

Remember the earthquake in 1959 that had such a great effect upon Yellowstone's geothermal areas?

Here's where it happened...

We're at a campground on the north shore of Hebigan Lake. What looks like backhoe work is actually a fault scarp. One night in August 1959 the earth moved up to form this ridge.

SW US tour 2018
The campground had clematis flowers ... SW US tour 2018

... and a Ground squirrel (?)

(a mantra for the trip was "chipmunks have stripes at their eyes")

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The osprey watched us leave. SW US tour 2018
Hebgen Lake is a dammed section of the Madison River, this is its valley. Further west the fault goes under the lake. When the earthquake happened there was a huge landslide that blocked the river. The water rose and killed the trees. The resulting pool is now officially "Quake Lake". SW US tour 2018
Those mountains are on the south side of the lake... they rose 15 feet. Waterfront cabins on Hebgen became 20 feet above the shore. Waves (seiches) resonated along Hebgen's length and cracked its dam. The dam held, but a large slosh of water went down the river valley. The cleared face of the mountain fell down and ended up "sloshed" over 400 feet up the northern bank and wall. SW US tour 2018
There's a comprehensive visitor center perched on top of the debris pile (the light-colored shelf in the previous photo). We admired the seismograph-inspired railing. SW US tour 2018
It had good signage and lots of historic and human-interest displays and artifacts. SW US tour 2018
There had been 250 people occupying the canyon when the quake struck near midnight. There was a full campground where the landslide happened. An estimated 28 people were killed, 19 of which are assumed buried under the rubble.  SW US tour 2018
Geologists have evidence that the Madison Range has risen at least 5000 feet in the last two million years (marked by Yellowstone's ash falls). A fault-slip like the one that made this magnitude 7.1 earthquake every 6000 years would account for the rise.  SW US tour 2018
But it's peaceful now. SW US tour 2018

A bit further along US 287...

Have you ever noticed that some cell towers are built to (try to) look like trees? Do you think there's cell coverage in the valley?

(we met some in South Africa, too ... we met at least 2 of them along the southern coast)

SW US tour 2018
For a long distance we saw a gold-colored mountain: they mine the sandstone for building. SW US tour 2018
Then there's the high terrain where the sand has all washed away from between the rocks. SW US tour 2018
An 80-mile dash along I-90 took us past Butte but the copper mine was visible from a long way away. SW US tour 2018
We camped for the night in Garrison, Montana ... with showers and laundry. SW US tour 2018
The next morning it's back to the back roads... Montana 121 lets us see how modern cowboys herd cows. SW US tour 2018
This part of the country still has the habit of putting out large-scale cement beasties to attract tourists to the business. Karen remembers from her family roadtrips in the 50's ... they seem to work (that's another tourist snapping a photo)

(intersection of Montana 200 and Montana 83 ... there's no town here, just the gas station)

SW US tour 2018

At the grocery store in Kalispell we find the more modern version: Pacific Seafood roadtour employees trying to get folks to buy more seafood.

(Dick thinks these crustaceans may have been out in the sun just a bit too long...)

SW US tour 2018
We're into the area where trees are raised as a crop on private land. This is a whole mountainside. SW US tour 2018
We camp at "Bad Medicine" National Forest campground on Bull Lake
(off Montana 56 for the puzzled)
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full of roses SW US tour 2018
(and mosquitoes (hard to photograph))  SW US tour 2018
They want anglers to be sure not to catch the endangered native Bulltrout. SW US tour 2018
We avoid the problem by enjoying the dock but not fishing at all. SW US tour 2018
The next couple of (egad! is that rain??) days we spend at our friend's new home in Elk Washington. SW US tour 2018
They moved from very suburban Issaquah Washington. It was fun hearing their experiences.. SW US tour 2018
...as they settled into their new home in this very rural area. SW US tour 2018
Replete with turkeys ... SW US tour 2018
... and a lavender farm SW US tour 2018
Restocking our larder Dick found something even he wasn't going to eat. SW US tour 2018
As we headed home the skies were loweing to the north so we took Hwy 2 instead of coming through the north Cascades. SW US tour 2018
We thereby got to enjoy the channeled scablands once again SW US tour 2018
(note lack of rain clouds)  SW US tour 2018
... and camped at Dry Falls State Park. SW US tour 2018
Located on little Park Lake, south of Coulee City.  SW US tour 2018
... at the north end of the "Chain of Lakes"  SW US tour 2018
The visitor center was still closed when we left but the view from the parking lot is always spectacular. SW US tour 2018
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Back on US 2, crossing the high plateau, driving west through the crops ... SW US tour 2018
...you see the people working to grow your food. SW US tour 2018
Traffic tickens in the vicinity of Cashmere as we head toward the Cascades... SW US tour 2018
... where it even rained on us coming across Stevens Pass. SW US tour 2018
When we got home the cherries were almost ripe. SW US tour 2018

Back to Travel Page

Part 1: Seattle to Grand Canyon
Part 2: Glen Canyon to Dinosaur

Patterns for Inspiration

 


all text and images copyright Karen and Dick Seymour 2016,
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