Travels with Dick and Karen

South Africa

Part 1
Cape Town

South Africa map-capetown
Why did we go to South Africa? Karen's reason: To see weird flowers called Proteas and to see what we consider as "houseplants" in their native habitat. Dick's reason: To see South Africa. South Africa part 1- Cape Town

To minimize the number of hops in-between and to allow "open jaw", we flew Emirates to Dubai and then to Cape Town. We departed Seattle at 6pm Aug 27th on a 14 hour flight, heading northeast. The prevailing winds coupled with the geometry of Great Circles meant that going over Greenland is really the best route! They had these nice screens on the back of each seat showing where we were (or our choice of 200 movies and other entertainment).

South Africa part 1- Cape Town

But looking out the window was much more interesting:
Greenland's mountains and glaciers catching the early morning's light.

South Africa part 1- Cape Town
We arrived in Dubai at 7pm the next calendar day. Then a 9 hour layover in the Dubai airport, leaving at 4am on the 29th. People in clothing from all over the world, not just western dress. The three-story three-terminal duty-free shops were busy all night. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
At 4 in the morning, what we saw of Dubai were patterns of lights in the sand. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Eight hours later, an hour before local "noon," the clouds parted to give us our first glimpse of South Africa and the snow on the mountains South Africa part 1- Cape Town

The south coast beaches

South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Our first glimpse of Table Mountain, which we weren't to see clearly again for several days. South Africa part 1- Cape Town

Our taxi driver made sure to point out a township on the way to where we were staying in downtown Cape Town.

South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Our host Faisal introducing us to the proteas and other plants of his garden South Africa part 1- Cape Town
His "pincushion" proteas were very impressive. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Our "room" in Cape Town was a one-bedroom guest cottage beside Faisal's home, booked through www.airbnb.com . Here is Karen on the steps to it, with Table Mountain looming behind. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
The next morning, the VW Kombi campervan we had pre-arranged from www.lekkercamper.co.za was delivered to our door. This also shows the spectacular view we had of Cape Town Harbor. South Africa part 1- Cape Town Lekkercamper
We spent a couple of days outfitting the van for our intended camping. Mostly shopping at the harborside Victoria and Albert Waterfront shopping complex (the "V&A"). Signal Hill is in the background, with Table Mountain mostly enshrouded by its "tablecloth". South Africa part 1- Cape Town Victoria and Albert Waterfront
One attraction of the V&A is the Two Oceans Aquarium, featuring displays from both the cold Atlantic and the warmer Indian Oceans. This tank lets children (and the occasional adult) "swim with Nemo". ( Western clownfish (anemonefish), Amphiprion ocellaris ) South African clownfish exhibit
These jellyfish look very much like ones we see at home in Seattle. (Moon jellyfish, Aurelia aurita) South African Moon jellyfish
As do the skates, rays and ratfish South Africa part 1- Cape Town
But this Honeycomb moray eel (Gymnothorax favagineus), from the coast of KwaZulu-Natal, looks quite different. There's a Zebra eel (Gymnomuraena zebra) in the rock just above it. South African  Honeycomb moray eel
And we have nothing like this Clown Triggerfish (Balistoides conspicillum) in Pacific Northwest waters! South African Clown Triggerfish
And while they have kelp forests in the cool west coast waters, the kelp is slightly different as you will see later. Aquarium Kelp forest
And the penguins look puzzled as they always do. Aquarium penguins
The next day we drove out to the Cape of Good Hope. Looking down Cape Point at the Cape of Good Hope
And our first wild proteas South African wild proteas
Although this day was bright and usually sunny, there was a bitter wind blowing off the South Atlantic. Cape Point touring
Much of the landscape was low shrubby fynbos. The original colonizing Dutch had been disappointed by the area's lack of good timber, and described the vegetation as fijn bosch (fine bush). Afrikaans bent that to "fynbos". The white is a monument to one of the early explorers of the area. Cape Point vegetation
We reached the Cape Point Lighthouse parking lot just after the final funicular tram had departed. We decided we couldn't make hike up and down and still make it back to town before dark so we left that for another trip. Cape Point is the southernmost point of this spit of land, but not the southernmost tip of Africa. Cape Point Lighthouse
The Cape of Good Hope is actually a little bit north and west of Cape Point... it's a short spur of rock pointing out into the Atlantic with its own parking lot. The Cape of Good Hope
There were wide kelp beds all along the shore. South Africa part 1- Cape Point kelp
This kelp has an inflated stipe area but not the full ball of our local Pacific Northwest Bull Kelp. South Africa part 1- Cape Point kelp

Our first African antelope!
(screech of brakes, snap snap snap of shutters...)

South Africa part 1st Cape Point antelope
And the first of many ostriches in the road South Africa part 1- Cape  Point ostrich
and along the road. South Africa part 1- Cape Point ostrich
The next day dawned bright and clear so we took the Table Mountain cable car. One guess as to how we paid for it... South Africa part 1- Cape Town Table Mountain cable car
As the car rises, its floor spins one full turn during the 2300-foot ascent. This gives every passenger the full sweep of the view. I started the trip facing the mountain, and here, half-way up, we're facing north towards the harbor. Our brave little VW is the only red vehicle parked along the road to the right of the other cable car. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
At the 3500 foot summit plateau, there's a monument showing typical local wildflowers, the terrain and major highways of the area, with arrows and distances to cities of the world. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Looking south, we could see all the way to the Cape of Good Hope where we had been the previous day South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Looking northeast to the Boland mountains, the southern end of the Cape Fold Belt range. Yes, that's fresh snow on the 6500 foot range.  South Africa part 1- Cape Town

Looking north and down towards downtown Cape Town.

The next panorama shows all of Cape Town, with a red circle to mark our guest cottage.

South Africa part 1- Cape Town
South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Our final full day in Cape Town was dedicated to seeing the world-renowned Kirstenbosh Gardens. All of the plants in it are native to some part of South Africa.
The gardens are located "on the other (south) side" of Table Mountain from the city, and the garden map included the names of the various peaks forming the garden's northern boundary.
South Africa part 1- Cape Town
We started with the compact but impressivly diverse greenhouse. This captive baobob was the only one we'd see on our trip since we didn't go far enough north. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Lots of succulents: many of the plants we think of as house plants are natives of South Africa South Africa part 1- Cape Town
The very strange welwitschia. A ground level "tree" with two leaves which keep growing its whole life. It has been on Karen's want-to-see list for a long time. They call it a tree because the 30 feet of it underground is more trunk-like tissue than root-like. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
The first of many Quiver trees, so named because the bushmen made quivers for their arrows out of them. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Another houseplant at its unrestrained size South Africa part 1- Cape Town
And of course, Karen will photograph a tree fern whenever she can. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Kirstenbosch Garden hugs the back skirts of Table Mountain South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Paths wind through fields of flowers, in this case daisies and geraniums South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Then there were the specimen plants. This white bird of paradise, a relative of banana trees, is much larger than the one in our atrium at home. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
We found this banana flower very impressive too. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
This shows only a small part of the display of what was currently blooming in the garden -- many of these are proteas. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Aloe -- another houseplant in the wild South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Our first Egyptian goose. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
And the vygies we would find growing all over. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
They come in many bright colors. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
More pincushion proteas South Africa part 1- Cape Town
And proteas of surprising delicacy South Africa part 1- Cape Town
And tiny size South Africa part 1- Cape Town
And finally the largest: the King Protea. South Africa part 1- Cape Town
Now we can leave town. South Africa part 1- Cape Town

Next Stop: Namaqua

Cape Town
Namaqua
(Flowers and shores of the west coast)
Tree Tops and Surf
(east of Cape Town to Port Elizabeth)

Animals and Mountains
(Addo to Kruger and the Drakensbergs)

 


all text and images copyright Karen and Dick Seymour 2013,
and may not be reproduced without written permission

Back to the Seymour Stained Glass website:

Home Show
Schedule
Class
Schedule
DIY Book &
Patterns
FAQs, Links
Info., etc.
Contact &
About us
Ordering Gallery