London, Part 7
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Victoria and Albert Museum:(search its collections yourself) There is the usual display of Greek and Roman artifacts carted off wholesale, similar to the Louvre and the British Museum, but fewer. In part this is due to the collecting goals of the various museums. Originally the "Museum of Manufactures", the V&A is more concerned with the processes and evolution of creating art and design, rather than mere acquisition. Mileposts along the way, instead of grabbing the entire highway. |
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Hence there are the Cast Courts instead of originals. Two rooms full of reproductions of famous pieces from all over Europe so that British artists could learn from the masters without leaving home. |
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A mezzanine spans the wall between the two Cast rooms. From up here the head of Michaelangelo's David seems a little large. Michaelangelo exaggerated it so when viewed from the ground it looks in proper proportion (previous photo). | |
The copy of Trajan's Column is presented in two pieces to fit under the roof | |
Dick can't help but wonder where the dusty attic is that still holds all of the molds that went into making these copies.. | |
Most are fragile plaster instead of marble and you can see the seams. However, you have many masterpieces from all over Europe gathered together in just 2 rooms. There were often artists sitting sketching when we were there. | |
They also allow the student to travel in time: This is a cast of a pulpit which was broken up and the pieces used in other places. The cast was well-researched and the pieces reassembled to present the pulpit in its original form. |
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Not all of the displayed pieces were plaster... |
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Beyond the cast courts there are groupings of artistic works by region: Europe |
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Karen loves these Palissy-ware pieces. | |
One wonders if this spinning wheel (or "distaff") was ever really used | |
Would you use this to drink beer? | |
We saw so many ornate virginals. This one is decorated with thousands of bits of glass. |
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Jug decorated with a little hop-vine man | |
Many of the rooms were very dim to avoid further fading the cloth (and of course they didn't want you to use flash). |
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And other rooms were dim to show off the stained glass |
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This was made for the Great Exhibition of 1851 | |
And of course there was the occasional over-the-top gaudy room | |
The Middle East: For weeks we could only peer into this room from above while the display was being put together. But it opened just before we left town. |
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There were lots of wonderful geometric designs throughout the exhibit. | |
Woven works and the tools used to create them. | |
An ornate fireplace | |
Wouldn't a drink poured from something this elegant just taste better? | |
Asia: Japan, China and Korea | |
This incense burner was made for the Great Exhibition of 1851. It was an Asian idea of what would impress Europeans. It still does. |
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Twelve Inrõ representing the months of a year... elegantly fashioned small containers Japanese men hung from their kimono's obi (belt), in lieu of pockets.
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The glaze on this is a masterwork | |
Some of the more modern items were impressive: this python purse is cloisonné, not snakeskin | |
...detail of the above. As the description wrote, each individual sugar-cube-sized block is individually wrapped in paper. It reminds Dick of looking at a surface of lava... gift-wrapped. The entire work is over 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide. The photos don't do it justice at all. |
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We found many exciting displays upstairs where they were grouped by medium with a discussion of the evolution and exchange of techniques all across the world. The stairs weren't too shabby, either. |
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There's a mirror on the back wall so it isn't really quite so long as it appears, but it's still very impressive. We spent several hours in just this one room. Notice the pattern of light on the upper balusters... we'll get back to that |
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It showed the evolution of glass blowing across time and place | |
as you get to newer work it gets colorful | |
(Karen struggled to select only a few photos from the 130 we took in this room alone) | |
There were drawers and drawers and drawers full of smaller work | |
This is a close-up of the piece at the top rear of the preceding photo | |
They even had drawers full of broken pieces. Dick spent an embarassing amount of time trying to locate the description of the center piece in the room's computer terminals' access to the V&A's database. |
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There were so many wonderful pieces: we both liked this mouse | |
And the illusion of depth in this bowl. |
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The glass railing up the stairs and along the mezzanine was a delight. Each post is a column of stacked square pieces of clear glass. But some of the squares were twisted in the stack to give an overall wave along the columns. | |
Up on the mezzanine were cases and cases packed with the "stored" glass. | |
The next room was full of modern work. These are just a few of the fine works displayed. |
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Toots Zynsky's Dondolante Serena |
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Then there are the rooms of ceramics. (that entire cabinet is a warren of drawers) |
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There's a vary well thought out educational display in the center of the first room |
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With many examples of choices in construction and materials. With this background you gain much more understanding of what you are looking at in the collection. Here it explains the diferent kinds of clay bases (stoneware, porcelain, fritware, etc.) | |
... various grades of porcelain | |
Another display was on glazes and formulas. |
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A glaze test plate from a British factory | |
Even a famous potter's workshop was transfered to the museum intact (and included a video interview from when she was still working). | |
The collection started with some of the earliest ceramics (well ... this one is really powdered quartz, not clay, but faience is generally considered part of "ceramics" rather than "glass") |
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(It does take a team of horses to drag Dick away from early Chinese ceramic horses) |
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The displays and explanations traced the influences of China, Turkey, Japan on Europe and vice versa. | |
Yes, ceramic peapods. | |
And dragons | |
All the way up through more modern times (see any of your grandmother's china here?) | |
There was the room of current artwork: |
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(Ooooo! ) |
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Then there are the rooms of stored artifacts | |
... rooms of them. | |
The furniture exhibit was the most polished. |
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Tools and descriptions of techniques | |
Plus examples | |
Plus computer screens giving details of each piece: |
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Often with cut-away examples to reveal the hidden jointery | |
Even simple paint can make a great piece, although I'm not sure I'd want to have it in our bedroom (living room maybe, given our housekeeping). |
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Then there were the more modern pieces frozen in transition: This set of drawers pulls sideways to become a table | |
"George" combines computer and traditional methods | |
Not all furniture involves wood. This flexible PVC "Bookworm" can be curled into any shape that catches your fancy... and it's still commercially available. (Searching the database revealed that its longer steel cousin "This Mortal Coil" is held in the V&A's storage.) |
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"One Shot" Stools 3-D Printing hits the V&A ... these nylon stools were each "printed" fully assembled. Layers of Nylon powder were heated by a laser in a sintering process, melting where struck. The flexible joints and pivots were created by leaving tiny gaps between the adjacent melted areas. The process leaves a rough matt texture on the outside where you can see the individual layers (if you squint at the real object). |
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The Fractal Table Another 3-D printed table, with some differences: It's modeled after the fractal structure of a "Dragon Tree" (Dracaena). Notice the branching of the legs and the shadows on the ground from the light passing through its structure. Unlike the melted-powder of the above stool, this table was formed by having a laser UV-cure the top skin of a pool of liquid resin ... so each layer is only 0.1mm (1/250th of an inch) thick. Then the supporting structure of the printer dropped 0.1mm and the next layer was formed. Repeat. It took over 7 days to print the table. The V&A has a video of the process. |
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Around the corner and down the stairs to Ironwork... | |
Grillwork, railings, merchants' hanging signs... Wrought iron, cast iron ... |
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... and lock mechanisms, for both their external appearance and internal wizardry. | |
The Hereford Choir Screen Made in 1862, it was displayed at the Great Exhibition before being installed in Hereford Cathedral a year later. When it was remonved from there it eventually wound up at the V&A needing thousands of hours of restoration work. It is now a showpiece of what can be done in metalwork. |
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Metalwork includes biscuit tins, doesn't it? "Bluebird" (1911) |
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Modern designs are represented
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There was a special exhibit of modern silverwork: Karen liked the lichen in this piece is by Abigail Brown |
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No, we haven't jumped to the Natural History Museum quite yet: This costume comes from the play "Rhinocerous" and was part of a multi-media Theatre Arts display. | |
Lots of gorgeous costumes, theatre sets, etc. Once more, the lighting was dim to avoid fading the colors, so most of our photos are blurry. Well worth seeing in person. But now the curtain drops, the house lights come up ... and we head across Exhibition Road to ... |
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The Natural History Museum:We entered the side door because we were headed for geology first (and the lines were long at the front door) |
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We've always had a fondness for stegasaurus "Sophie" is the most complete stegasaurus fossil ever found, missing only its left forelag, base of the tail and a few small bones. It took 18 months to extract from the ground in Wyoming. The museum provided images showing the cast versus original specimen: |
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Interesting geology samples surrounded Sophie | |
and fossils (a mass ammonite grave) | |
Then we go up through an artistic molten earth... | |
To lots of samples and displays of how the ground under your feet came to be. These are different forms of lava. |
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We didn't know coal could do that |
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Lots of pretty gems and minerals... | |
...with less than optimal lighting. Sometimes dramatic, yes, but other times interesting specimens were in pools of shadow |
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Even the table in the "mens' waiting room" (restroom alcove) was elegant stone. | |
Now we switch to the intersection of biology and geology: fossils. The costumed person is a docent pretending to be Mary Anning, one of the first fossil hunters |
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Giant Sloths (on the right) may have persisted in South America into modern times. | |
School kids gather in the great hall (the front door opens into this space) to plan their expedition. In the main space they're greeted by Dippy the Diplodocus.
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A cast of a woolly rhinoceros mummy found in a tar pit in Poland | |
And one of our favorite reptiles pre-bird | |
Ancient reptiles had bones in their eyes. | |
There was a separate dinosaur exhibit with many skeletons above visitors, heads. | |
Culminating in an animated T Rex. | |
The comparative anatomy of fellow hominins
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And a possible family tree | |
From extinct we move to those not yet so. | |
All the alcoves off the main room are also full of models and skeletons of mammals, mostly organized by family. | |
A blue whale skeleton is being prepped to replace "Dippy", the dinosaur in the main hall. Dippy will step outside to stand in the garden. |
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Next we explored marine creatures. |
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The deep ocean has its own strange collection of beasties. | |
And then there are those who are able to deal with both land and water | |
If you're going to live in both worlds, it helps to be an amphibian. The Japanese Giant Salamander is the largest currently living. |
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Not all mammals are furry. | |
Waaay back on our "Canal to Soho" page, we dropped in on a gallery that had a photographic exhibit of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka's glass models of invertebrates . Here is one of the original glass models (plus many other notable artifacts like a dodo skeleton and a 1st edition of Darwin’s Origin of the Species. Again in very dim light).
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The really important (and the classic bottled-in-formaldehyde) stuff is housed in the new wing. The "cocoon" gives a glimpse | |
An elevator to the top leads to the beginning of a long ramp that spirals down through the cocoon... | |
... past stored manuscripts, ships' logs and herbarium pressings ... | |
... a tiny fraction of the 23 million bottled specimens, most stored in refrigerated light-controlled conditions. |
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Yon can even see into the labs. (but no flash allowed) | |
Then there was a fine presentation on fieldwork. These bugs were collected by Darwin on the voyage of the Beagle. We enjoyed the real videos made by biologists in situ with all the bugs and bites and sweat and things that can go wrong but also can go right. | |
Out behind the cocoon-containing new wing of the building... | |
... Is the wildlife garden with a slab of limestone with dino footprints |
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A hive | |
And examples of several different British biomes |
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A grand old purpose-built space (Karen pointing out what look like roosting Pterosaurs among the animal sculptures) ... but now we leave the Natural History museum and walk just behind it on Exhibition Road to find ... |
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The Science Museum ...whose main floor is mostly VERY large technology |
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Featuring the real prototypes of famous inventions |
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This isn't a desktop model.... and it spins into action roughly every hour (but driven by an electric motor, not by steam) |
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Remember hearing that the idea for computer cards came from looms?
Mr. Jaquard's contribution ... a card reader controlling the sequencing of the heddles attached to an 1825 hand loom . |
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This loom ran scheduled demonstrations | |
James Watt's workshop (not a model) | |
(a model) |
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In the mills of Britain and the US, steam (or water) would power "line shafts" that ran along ceiling for the length of the room. Pulleys and belts would bring power down to the individual work stations or looms. This model had delightfully detailed (and functional) lathes, milling machines, presses and punches ... each about the size of a salt shaker. |
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Babbage's 1832 proof-of-concept Difference Engine ... the first "computer". Although this example was a "fixed program" machine, Babbage did envision models which had changeable operations dictated by punched cards. |
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Babbage's original design was not finished in his lifetime (due to a combination of politics, economics and Babbage's "management style"). For over 150 years it was claimed that it was beyond that technology's capabilities to build. Just recently people took his designs and did complete it ... and it works! Here's the result ... fresh polynomials delivered on demand. |
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Looking forward, this is a prototype of a clock which is planned to run accurately for thousands of years |
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The next section was space exploration | |
The 18th century rocketry soldier juxtaposed with the 20th century Sputnik satellite and the 21st century cell phone. | |
Next came "Making the Modern World" ... Around the periphery is a decade by decade exploration of technology for food, health, transportation, toys, games, ... |
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... housewares... | |
Recent medical and animal husbandry technology included Dolly the famous cloned sheep | |
In the basement, along with the children-only section, there was a side by side evolution of things like sewing machines, ovens, radios | |
toilets etc. | |
Upstairs had a presentation on why you might be craving something. The section of teens telling about their favorite junk food and why they shouldn't crave it was poignant. | |
There was also a small materials science section: see the 8 hemispherical lumps of glass? All the same chemical composition, just heated to increasingly high maximum tempeatures to "develop" the ruby color due to colloidal gold. |
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This sculpture was made from single sheets of "everything anything can be made with" by the Thomas Heatherwick studio. |
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On our last day in London we dropped in again to visit the Science Museum's clockmaker's guild's exhibit | |
Yes, by this point we were feeling the weight of time. But ... so what? Let's skip back a couple of weeks and visit... |
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The British MuseumFor many people, the British Museum is the museum worth visiting. In short: a lot has changed in 23 years... To begin with, they roofed over the central grassy courtyard and turned it into the gift shops, ticket and information booth space... |
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The first "regular" section was an introduction to the different collections and a bit about each of the collectors. |
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With highlights | |
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The next section held the massive statues we remembered from our trip 20 (very) odd years ago. | |
This Assyrian "Lamassu" from Nimrud harkens back to roughly 850 BC, predating the similar Mesopotamian statues in the Louvre by more than 100 years. Both of them shared the style of having five legs... the pair seen from the front, but the side view shows the further foreleg in a half-way back stride (somewhat hidden by the glare). |
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They had a large excavation here | |
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And then we got to Egypt: |
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Chunks of wall ... one of many friezes collected over the centuries.. |
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Lots and lots of mummy cases | |
And the Rosetta Stone (right) and a copy we could touch (left) in another room.
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This modern looking scarab is probably from the 4th century | |
Then we get to the frieze from the Parthenon ... the famous Elgin Marbles. |
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The Nereid Monument |
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There are also lots of more modern artifacts: these are the few that the photos came out well and still looked interesting There were many orreys... |
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... glass may show up a few times... (this one's Roman) |
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... and tiles ... from Shropshire in the late 1800s |
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Swedish Cameo Glass from about 1900 ... the design is cut into colored layers | |
Mori Junko's hand-forged steel Ring of Small Petals (2014) |
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Even a piece from our neck of the woods, er, 'hood |
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Plus this archeological way of looking at modern life: Cradle to Grave
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In other sections we got into Asia |
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An interesting display of comparative scripts (with examples) | |
And lots of dragons. In fact all the rest of these are dragons of some sort, parked here so Karen can find them again. |
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Hundreds of tiny artistic bottles (not all glass) |
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Carved 'Imperial Ivory', with five dragons amidst clouds Jiaqing mark, 1796-1820. |
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Porcelain, double-gourd shape with underglaze cobalt blue and iron-red overglaze enamel decorated with dragons and bats Qianlong mark, 1170-95 |
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Tiny filagree dragons | |
Conch-shell trumpet made of shell, gilt copper alloy, copper and semi-precious stones Tibet, 18th-19th century AD Conch trumpets are part of the monastic orchestra. Some are decorated with textile streamers, while others, such as this example, are elongated to allow for stylised metal pennants to be attached to them. OA 1992.12-14.16 |
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Longquan green-glazed wares Flask with a dragon among clouds |
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Displaying the two jugs, each almost the inverse color pattern of the other was very effective. | |
Back of an ancient Chinese mirror | |
(This is the set Karen wanted to take home) |
1: Local area | 2: Thames river trip | 3: To the Tower | 4: Canal to Soho | 5: Further afield by rail: Reading, Kew |
6: Chelsea Gardens |
7: More Museum | To Iceland |
all text and images copyright Karen and Dick Seymour 2016,
and may not be reproduced without written permission
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